Happy holidays!!!

Tekc Fargo session with Roxy

Tekc Fargo session from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

Women&FA's&other stuff

I guess you noticed the new outfit of my blog. It was about time to make some changes and now the motivation to write something is back (lately, I've been pretty lazy for it).

The weather is shit. Perfect time to do some fingerboard training, running, pull ups and other stuff that makes you fit. Last weekend I went to Podrta gora (a talus spot nearby) together with Gašper. It was pretty wet so we did a lot of searching (walking), found new blocks, built some landings and worked on a hard project before the dark . In one word, we did some hard work. I was crushed at the end of the day.

A while ago I read an article Women in Climbing on Jamie Emerson's blog: B3bouldering. It's an interesting discussion about where women's climbing is today if we compare it to men's.

This chapter is interesting and it made me think:
'' Women are not the ones hiking to the boulders with rope, harness and wire brush to clean and climb the newest boulders. This is one obvious niche that has yet to be filled in the growth of our sport. The argument could be made that only a small percentage of the total number of men that climb develop new problems, and if more females did climb, the number of female developers would increase. Conversely, almost no women have done any significant first ascents of classic problems at the best climbing areas.''

Here is how I see the developing and first ascents: I like the searching and all the work that comes with it. But to be honest. I'm just a follower. I join the group of guys, we do all the work together and sometimes it happens that I'm the first one to climb the new line. If it wasn't for Gašper I would never get the idea to go searching for new blocs by myself, but I'm always happy to come along. I don't know why that is. In my head, I'm still lost in all the existing problems I want to do and I'm usually not the first one to encourage everybody to do some searching&cleaning. But at the end, all the best and most exciting climbing days around home (if I don't count trips) happened when we did some FA's. Maybe it's just a matter of time when  girls will go out and climb some future classics. We'll see...

World Cup Kranj

The competition season is officially over. I ended mine in April with the only competition I went to. But for everyone else, it was only the beginning  The last time I competed in Lead was in Kranj 2007, so I kind of forgotten how it is to climb those routes.

This year I got an opportunity to try them. I didn't compete but  the route setters asked me if I was willing to demonstrate the qualification round. The day before everything started I tried the routes. I knew it's going to be hard for me. I don't do any indoor training lately and the sport climbing I do here and there it's just not enough to have any endurance needed for those routes. Even if it's only the qualifiers. It was pretty hard and I got super pumped. If I wanted to compete again one day I would really have to train seriously for it.

The next day it was interesting to watch how the girls climbed the routes I demonstrated. The top girls were shaking off on the last holds which were really small. I knew before that there are no jugs but it's different if you try something and you fight and then someone goes and just cruises it. It was interesting to have a little pick view from behind the scenes and how the route setting and the whole organization works.

Mina in the finals. (photo: sliovenia climbing team)

The finals were great to watch. I'm always nervous when my team mates climb especially when it's my sister. The route setting was interesting and super hard for men and women and the home crowd went crazy when Maja and Mina were climbing. Congrats to all the winners!

Mina, Momoka and Maja on the podium (photo: slovenia climbing team)

Xeni styler saga

Xeni styler from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

Schizoline

photo by Mojca Žerjav

From spanish sandstone to austrian granit. Schizoline 7C: this long traverse in Maltatal seems endless. A lot of matching and heel hooking with a cool mantel to finish. Nice&pumpy. 

Venga!

Albarracin from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

ALBARRACIN

Finally October was here and so was our flight to Spain. It all started a bit strange. We arrived to Valencia airport and it was sooo hooot. Yes, we took a cheap Ryanair flight and I had almost all my clothes on...many many layers:)) So we were like ohhh noooo we didn’t bring any shorts.

Albarracin was not that hot. One cold morning I  did some warm ups in my down jacket.

Next thing was car rental. Off course we didn’t take any extra insurance and we made a nice scratch as soon as we drove out of the parking. Well, it happens. Then the rain started and the next day all the shops were closed because of a holiday we didn’t know about. And I caught a bad cold. So what else could go wrong? Nothing.

Nice bloc to start a day. Here is the last move on 6B, pretty committing! Luckily, Andrea and Petra had lots of crash pads with them, so we could climb anything we wanted. 

After a not very promising start of the trip we got to the boulder area. And it looked amazing! We forgot about the scratch on the car and my cold got better instantly. We took a walk around and met our swiss friends Andrea and Petra who also just arrived and planed to spend two weeks in Albarracin like us. The rock dries extremely quickly so after the morning rain and a nice walk the perfect sand stone was dry and we were ready to climb.

Gašper on one of the mantels.

Arrastradero, Techos, La Fuente, Entre Aguas or something else, there’s so many good problems and so many different styles on one place. This was our first visit and because we liked everything a lot, we didn’t bother looking for a project we could do in 2 weeks, we just wanted to climb all day on everything we walked by.

Beautiful arrete in Arrastradero. Arista de los belgas 7B.

Life in Spain is pretty much easy going and sometimes you get a feeling that the time stops a little bit. The whole atmosphere seems pretty relaxing which is perfect for climbing holidays like this. We kind of got into that spanish mood and this is how our climbing days looked like: after a nice long sleep we had breakfast from the famous bakery/panaderia. Fresh bread called rodondo and all sorts of croissants, coffee and then we were ready to climb ‘till dark.

Playing tourists for a rest day. The old town looks really nice from the top of the hill.

I don’t remember the last time I climbed this much. I had a pretty bad climbing year and now I feel like things will change. It’s always cool to be somewhere you’ve never been before. Beside climbing you also get to explore the new place and it’s so exciting to climb on new stuff.

Ineschakra, a hard crimpy 7B, pretty much different from anything else we tried. I needed the whole afternoon to find the beta. Thanks to Petra who didn't give up on it, I did it at the end.

In 2 weeks I did many problems between 7A and 7B which is a perfect difficulty level for me if I just want to climb a lot. Still, I had to try pretty hard on some problems. Usually the mantel is the crux (like in Tetris 7B for example) where you need to bring your hips over a bulge and it can get pretty tiring  For me it was also a good training for my dynamics  Many roofs with big moves from jug to jug and then a rock over. It's pretty physical and the guys were just playing with it, when Petra and I had to try pretty hard. But then you can also find crimpy problems with strange positions like Ineschakra, (a hard 7B which just us girls did) or very Fontainebleau style technical things like Sale huevos, 7A+ (I can't believe how many times I fell on that top out on our last day).

Popeye

I'll come back to Albarracin for sure. I can say it's one of my favorite areas now. The red sand stone, the lines, the variety of the climbs, the whole scenery and the experience is worth coming back to.

You think it's over once you get the jug? Not really. This roof is pretty tricky. One of those  I'll need to get back to next time.

Sometin's cooking...

One afternoon's project: 8house home made plum jam. Delicious!

New hot stuff

Another weekend in Trnovo...

Video by Marko Bratina/Lost Planet

New hot stuff:

- The killer inside me 7B (FA Katja)
- Vročinski val 6B (FA Gašper)
- Roxy direct 6B (FA Katja)
- Neznonsa gladkost gibanja 6A (FA Gašper)

HIGH UP IN THE MOUNTAINS

Refreshing new place is what I really needed and Silvretta sounded perfect. After weeks of bad forecasts and changing our minds whether to go or not, we were finally there.

We were staying at the camp ground by the lake. The lady who owns it was shocked when we arrived in the evening and didn't know where to put us. I think there was more than enough place for us considering how crowded Magic Wood usually is in this time of the year. Gašper and I, we have the smallest tent you can have for two people, the smallest by far in the whole camp ground and the next day it was us who had to move because we were supposed to be the ones making things crowded for our neighbour. I thought that was a bit funny.

Postcard from Sivretta (photo: G)

The setting between the mountains is mind-blowing. The fresh air feels nice even though I kind of felt the lack of oxygen in it, walking up to the highest sectors.

I didn't have any plans about what I wanted to do. First, I wanted to escape the impossible heat back home. Second, I really needed to go somewhere. It's been a while since our last trip and I kind of lost the psyche to train or climb or to do anything really. And third, the place seemed highly appealing watching the videos and pictures on the internet.

Too young to die 6B, good warm up high ball (photo: G)

So those few days in Silvretta were a true refreshment! We wanted to climb a lot but the sharpness of the rock shredded our skin pretty quickly. The next day we decided to go check out the place called Tumpen which was supposed to be like a little Magic Wood. And it's totally true. The rock, the woods and the style of climbing resembles quite a lot.

On the way back we stopped in Imst to watch the World Cup finals which was part of the plan for the day. We didn't want to be hungry during the finals so we stopped at the first place we saw - Bosna Burger :) where we had the worst burgers ever. Luckily I wasn't hungry enough so I avoided the whole thing. Gašper said it was just as sharp as the rock in Silvretta because the bread was so hard and that he felt like he had just flashed a 7C boulder problem when he finally finished eating. The finals were pretty cool to watch. We were waiting for Mina Markovič who performed as last and finished strong with 2nd place. Go Mina!!!

The original crew got bigger day by day. First it was just our car with Gašper&I and Boško&Urša. Then Mojca and Brecelj came and after them our friends from Croatia and my Moon team mates Sandra and Lija. Then we also met Thomasina on the parking lot and spent a cool day climbing all together.

Gašper in his project: British Airways

For me, this trip was more about exploring a new place than sending. The day before our last climbing day I was reading an interview with Shauna Coxsey in a Climb magazine and she said something like: Let's try really hard today. And I thought OK, when was the last time I tried really really hard? I couldn't tell and I decided that the next day I will try really really hard no matter what. I was very tired when I came all the way up to the last sectors but finished the day trying really really hard in my project from the first day Niviuk, which I didn't do at the end but I was happy with my climbing. Anyway Silvretta isn't that far for us so the next time we'll be there it will be a sending trip.

Niviuk: first on my tick list... (photo: G)

Hot summer climbing in Trnovo

I spent a nice weekend in Trnovo with Gašper. Bouldering, searching for new hot stuff, swimming in the cold river, barbecuing, resting and trying to handle the unbelievably high temperatures. All the photos below were taken and edited by Gašper.

Trying to climb something in the evening when the temperature drops to only 30°C. 

Wild and refreshing Soča River

Everyone's doing their own thing on Soča river: kayak or bouldering. What's yours??



Here is a video of Gašper's new little fun bloc called Leteča riba (Flying Fish) 6B+. A perfect problem for hot summer days!

Missing the desert...

MoonBlog

I didn't post anything for a while. HERE's the update of what's been going on lately.

History

Yesterday I went to Hubelj and everything was wet except History bloc. I did the 7C, the short version of it. I never climb on the sun, but yesterday I didn't have time to wait for the shade and did it anyway. COOL!!! The key was a new beta for the last move invented by dr. Schelcnbrenner. The sit start is next, but the first two moves are huge for me. Well, maybe one day!

I don't have a video but here is one from last year when Gašper did it:

MAGIC WOOD

We spent last weekend in Magic Wood. The plan was to stay there for the whole holidays, but the rain sent us home earlier. Rainy rest days in Magic are pretty boring and there was no point of waiting for the sun if we had it back home.

I'm really happy that I joined the crew. First, I thought I wasn't going to make it and that I'll be working for the holidays, but then that fell apart, so I quickly packed for Swiss. And I could finally test my new shiny crash pad :)

Due to my little finger injury I mostly climbed longer stuff with bigger holds, but pumpy or pretty high. It was so cool I could finally choose whatever I wanted to climb (not like a week ago at the comp). And that made me so relaxed and happy with my climbing. It's not about the grades. It's about how climbing feels. And this time it felt great. I'm not even worried about my finger anymore. It'll pass and I'll get more fit while climbing longer stuff.

Fetter Fish 7B (photo: G)

First day I didn't climb too much. But we stopped by the little roof Fetter Fish which looks pretty easy but it's not. It's a two move problem with weird positions always throwing you off before sticking the big hold. Unless you really squeezzzzzze the rock with both heels. Much more fun than it appears when you walk by it a hundred times before trying it.

Blue Sky of Mine 6A (photo: G)

This is my favourite warm up boulder. I never get tired of it. Such a beautiful climb!!!

Sideways 7C (photo: G)

Long and pumpy. A lot of heelhooking and turning around on big holds. Perfect for me this time. Two tries and you get super pumped and tired. I did it on my first go last day before the rain. Cool!

Intermezzo (photo: me, editing: G)

After I did Sideways we stopped by Intermezzo. For me it was to crimpy but Gašper did it in a few tries and I took pictures.

Later that day I did Blown Away. One of the most amazing and aesthetic lines in the woods. (I don't have a photo but it'll be in a video). Every time we go to Octopussy I walk by it thinking I should try it. And then I get stuck up there trying my projects. So this time was perfect. I couldn't climb the hard ones so I finally did it. It's even more beautiful to climb than it looks!

And after that the rain started and it looked like it'll never stop. So we packed and drove back home. Stay tuned for the video.

World Cup Log

A collage from my climbing in qualification round and semi finals. No finals for me this year :(



Congratulations to Mina and her victory!!! She really crushed it yesterday!

The competition we were all waiting for is over. I wrote about it on MOONBLOG.

The Cave



Gorza collage by G



Easter in Maltatal

Finally no rain and a day off! Like every Easter for the last few years, we went to Maltatal. I just got new shiny Scarpa shoes to test and the weather was perfect. But I didn't feel great. Maybe I ate too much potica cake the day before :) So there was no real action from my side. Anyway, it was a beautiful day worth spending in a beautiful nature. And now the rain strikes again...come on!!! :(

B E A U T I F U L (photo: G)

Shiny and sticky (photo: G)



My piece of art :)



Scarpa Team Slovenia on FB

HERE is the new FB page from Scarpa Team Slovenia. You'll find all about the team, the products and more....check it out!

Missing all the places

Lately, I spent most of the time training indoor for the competition in Log. To be honest, I can't wait it'll happen. Sure, I'm excited about competing, but most of all, I really miss bouldering outside. All the problems and little local spots, I kind of got tired before, seem incredibly appealing in this moment. And the idea of going on a trip, sounds even better. Can't wait to go out again...

This song perfectly discribes what would be the best thing to do. Leave on the next plane with no plan coming back. Gašper is playing it all the time and he ''infected'' all of us :)

Moon Blog

My impressions about climbing in Font with Slovenia Climbing Team on MOONBLOG.

FONTAINEBLEAU with Slovenia Climbing Team

Last day in The Forest. La rampe in Buthiers.



Click HERE to see more photos by Roman Krajnik.
Some words and impressions coming soon on MoonBlog.

Something different

Somehow we survived the freeznig cold. The temperatures are back to normal and we can finally climb outside without being scared to get blown away by the wind.

In the mean time I've been training with Slovenia climbing team and I must say I really enjoy some indoor action with Mina, Maja and other strong slovenian climbers.
It's time to get strong!

Photo: Sloveina climbing team

A week ago, I did something totally differnet and new. Perfoming on a stage of the big Gallus hall for Slovenian cultural Day. Not climbing!!! It was a great experience for me. Thanks to Branko Potočan and his crew  I did something I've never thought I would. The director of the event was Matjaž Pograjc and you can watch the whole thing here. Some pictures I found on the internet:

Šeli and Dana

In the air... I'm the one on the left.

8HOUSE goes to Font

3min from our last trip to Font... can't wait the next one!

8house goes to Font from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

LIJAK

A nice little crag near Nova Gorica, perfect to hide from the cold wind and enjoy some sun. It was time to get a little pumped :)

Voices of freedom 7b...beautiful! (photo: Uroš Brecelj)

VITOVLJE

The start of the 2012 on Vitovlje in pictures....



Flower in the sky (photo: Roman Krajnik)

 

Rože zla, still a project :( (photo: Roman Krajnik)

Roman in Krapova lojtra...it's really nice to see him in action! GO ROMAN :)