9 May 2012

History

Yesterday I went to Hubelj and everything was wet except History bloc. I did the 7C, the short version of it. I never climb on the sun, but yesterday I didn't have time to wait for the shade and did it anyway. COOL!!! The key was a new beta for the last move invented by dr. Schelcnbrenner. The sit start is next, but the first two moves are huge for me. Well, maybe one day!

I don't have a video but here is one from last year when Gašper did it:

3 May 2012

MAGIC WOOD

We spent last weekend in Magic Wood. The plan was to stay there for the whole holidays, but the rain sent us home earlier. Rainy rest days in Magic are pretty boring and there was no point of waiting for the sun if we had it back home.

I'm really happy that I joined the crew. First, I thought I wasn't going to make it and that I'll be working for the holidays, but then that fell apart, so I quickly packed for Swiss. And I could finally test my new shiny crash pad :)

Due to my little finger injury I mostly climbed longer stuff with bigger holds, but pumpy or pretty high. It was so cool I could finally choose whatever I wanted to climb (not like a week ago at the comp). And that made me so relaxed and happy with my climbing. It's not about the grades. It's about how climbing feels. And this time it felt great. I'm not even worried about my finger anymore. It'll pass and I'll get more fit while climbing longer stuff.
Fetter Fish 7B (photo: G)

First day I didn't climb too much. But we stopped by the little roof Fetter Fish which looks pretty easy but it's not. It's a two move problem with weird positions always throwing you off before sticking the big hold. Unless you really squeezzzzzze the rock with both heels. Much more fun than it appears when you walk by it a hundred times before trying it.
Blue Sky of Mine 6A (photo: G)

This is my favourite warm up boulder. I never get tired of it. Such a beautiful climb!!!

Sideways 7C (photo: G)
Long and pumpy. A lot of heelhooking and turning around on big holds. Perfect for me this time. Two tries and you get super pumped and tired. I did it on my first go last day before the rain. Cool!

Intermezzo (photo: me, editing: G)
After I did Sideways we stopped by Intermezzo. For me it was to crimpy but Gašper did it in a few tries and I took pictures.

Later that day I did Blown Away. One of the most amazing and aesthetic lines in the woods. (I don't have a photo but it'll be in a video). Every time we go to Octopussy I walk by it thinking I should try it. And then I get stuck up there trying my projects. So this time was perfect. I couldn't climb the hard ones so I finally did it. It's even more beautiful to climb than it looks!

And after that the rain started and it looked like it'll never stop. So we packed and drove back home. Stay tuned for the video.