New hot stuff

Another weekend in Trnovo...

Video by Marko Bratina/Lost Planet

New hot stuff:

- The killer inside me 7B (FA Katja)
- Vročinski val 6B (FA Gašper)
- Roxy direct 6B (FA Katja)
- Neznonsa gladkost gibanja 6A (FA Gašper)

HIGH UP IN THE MOUNTAINS

Refreshing new place is what I really needed and Silvretta sounded perfect. After weeks of bad forecasts and changing our minds whether to go or not, we were finally there.

We were staying at the camp ground by the lake. The lady who owns it was shocked when we arrived in the evening and didn't know where to put us. I think there was more than enough place for us considering how crowded Magic Wood usually is in this time of the year. Gašper and I, we have the smallest tent you can have for two people, the smallest by far in the whole camp ground and the next day it was us who had to move because we were supposed to be the ones making things crowded for our neighbour. I thought that was a bit funny.

Postcard from Sivretta (photo: G)

The setting between the mountains is mind-blowing. The fresh air feels nice even though I kind of felt the lack of oxygen in it, walking up to the highest sectors.

I didn't have any plans about what I wanted to do. First, I wanted to escape the impossible heat back home. Second, I really needed to go somewhere. It's been a while since our last trip and I kind of lost the psyche to train or climb or to do anything really. And third, the place seemed highly appealing watching the videos and pictures on the internet.

Too young to die 6B, good warm up high ball (photo: G)

So those few days in Silvretta were a true refreshment! We wanted to climb a lot but the sharpness of the rock shredded our skin pretty quickly. The next day we decided to go check out the place called Tumpen which was supposed to be like a little Magic Wood. And it's totally true. The rock, the woods and the style of climbing resembles quite a lot.

On the way back we stopped in Imst to watch the World Cup finals which was part of the plan for the day. We didn't want to be hungry during the finals so we stopped at the first place we saw - Bosna Burger :) where we had the worst burgers ever. Luckily I wasn't hungry enough so I avoided the whole thing. Gašper said it was just as sharp as the rock in Silvretta because the bread was so hard and that he felt like he had just flashed a 7C boulder problem when he finally finished eating. The finals were pretty cool to watch. We were waiting for Mina Markovič who performed as last and finished strong with 2nd place. Go Mina!!!

The original crew got bigger day by day. First it was just our car with Gašper&I and Boško&Urša. Then Mojca and Brecelj came and after them our friends from Croatia and my Moon team mates Sandra and Lija. Then we also met Thomasina on the parking lot and spent a cool day climbing all together.

Gašper in his project: British Airways

For me, this trip was more about exploring a new place than sending. The day before our last climbing day I was reading an interview with Shauna Coxsey in a Climb magazine and she said something like: Let's try really hard today. And I thought OK, when was the last time I tried really really hard? I couldn't tell and I decided that the next day I will try really really hard no matter what. I was very tired when I came all the way up to the last sectors but finished the day trying really really hard in my project from the first day Niviuk, which I didn't do at the end but I was happy with my climbing. Anyway Silvretta isn't that far for us so the next time we'll be there it will be a sending trip.

Niviuk: first on my tick list... (photo: G)

Hot summer climbing in Trnovo

I spent a nice weekend in Trnovo with Gašper. Bouldering, searching for new hot stuff, swimming in the cold river, barbecuing, resting and trying to handle the unbelievably high temperatures. All the photos below were taken and edited by Gašper.

Trying to climb something in the evening when the temperature drops to only 30°C. 

Wild and refreshing Soča River

Everyone's doing their own thing on Soča river: kayak or bouldering. What's yours??



Here is a video of Gašper's new little fun bloc called Leteča riba (Flying Fish) 6B+. A perfect problem for hot summer days!

Missing the desert...

MoonBlog

I didn't post anything for a while. HERE's the update of what's been going on lately.

History

Yesterday I went to Hubelj and everything was wet except History bloc. I did the 7C, the short version of it. I never climb on the sun, but yesterday I didn't have time to wait for the shade and did it anyway. COOL!!! The key was a new beta for the last move invented by dr. Schelcnbrenner. The sit start is next, but the first two moves are huge for me. Well, maybe one day!

I don't have a video but here is one from last year when Gašper did it:

MAGIC WOOD

We spent last weekend in Magic Wood. The plan was to stay there for the whole holidays, but the rain sent us home earlier. Rainy rest days in Magic are pretty boring and there was no point of waiting for the sun if we had it back home.

I'm really happy that I joined the crew. First, I thought I wasn't going to make it and that I'll be working for the holidays, but then that fell apart, so I quickly packed for Swiss. And I could finally test my new shiny crash pad :)

Due to my little finger injury I mostly climbed longer stuff with bigger holds, but pumpy or pretty high. It was so cool I could finally choose whatever I wanted to climb (not like a week ago at the comp). And that made me so relaxed and happy with my climbing. It's not about the grades. It's about how climbing feels. And this time it felt great. I'm not even worried about my finger anymore. It'll pass and I'll get more fit while climbing longer stuff.

Fetter Fish 7B (photo: G)

First day I didn't climb too much. But we stopped by the little roof Fetter Fish which looks pretty easy but it's not. It's a two move problem with weird positions always throwing you off before sticking the big hold. Unless you really squeezzzzzze the rock with both heels. Much more fun than it appears when you walk by it a hundred times before trying it.

Blue Sky of Mine 6A (photo: G)

This is my favourite warm up boulder. I never get tired of it. Such a beautiful climb!!!

Sideways 7C (photo: G)

Long and pumpy. A lot of heelhooking and turning around on big holds. Perfect for me this time. Two tries and you get super pumped and tired. I did it on my first go last day before the rain. Cool!

Intermezzo (photo: me, editing: G)

After I did Sideways we stopped by Intermezzo. For me it was to crimpy but Gašper did it in a few tries and I took pictures.

Later that day I did Blown Away. One of the most amazing and aesthetic lines in the woods. (I don't have a photo but it'll be in a video). Every time we go to Octopussy I walk by it thinking I should try it. And then I get stuck up there trying my projects. So this time was perfect. I couldn't climb the hard ones so I finally did it. It's even more beautiful to climb than it looks!

And after that the rain started and it looked like it'll never stop. So we packed and drove back home. Stay tuned for the video.