20 May 2011

Moonblog

 

My report about the World Cup in Log and what else was going on since I came back from The States on MOONBLOG!

9 May 2011

World Cup - Log

This weekend we had a great home competition. For the first time Slovenia hosted a bouldering World Cup and the organizers did a great job.

Fighting in my last problem in the finals (photo: Maja Vidmar)

It's been almost a year since my last World Cup competition. So I didn't know what to expect and that was really good because I had no pressure and I just wanted to climb my best.

I guess it was my lucky day yesterday. The route setters made interesting, really hard but possible boulder problems. I climbed good in the semi-finals and just made it to the top 6 girls that competed in the evening finals. Natalija also made it which was good for our team success.

Climbing in the finals, with that nothing-to-lose feeling and with the crazy crowd cheering for you was super cool. The problems were really hard. I had to fight the whole time just to get to the bonus hold.

First problem in the finals: How to get around this slippery edge?! (photo: Maja Vidmar)

At the end no tops for me and 4th place. I just missed the podium where Anna Stoehr took the first place, Akiyo Noguchi was 2nd and Alex Puccio 3rd. I'm really happy with my 4th place. I did my best and I enjoyed it so much!.

The podium (photo: Maja Vidmar)
Since I came back from The States I kind of focused on this competition. I climbed a lot outside but I also trained indoor with the whole team. And I think that the balance that I found between training and rock climbing was perfect for me.

Like I said, the competition was great but now I want to go back to Magic Wood as soon as possible :)

5 May 2011

Magic Wooooooood

From Strongfinger productions:




Short but magic holidays with G, Boško, other Slovenians, Americans, Swiss,...many cool and strong people to climb with! The conditions were perfect but I didn't send anything hard this time, couldn't really focus on one thing. I just wanted to climb as much as possible. There's too many good problems for such a short trip.

Next time I have to do Du côté de Seshuan. I kept falling on the last move, jumping for the jug. Arrrrgggghhh :) 
G&I, we were also trying Octopussy and it went pretty good. I almost sticked the sloper a few times...it's a big move, but I think I could do it one day. Seeing Alex Puccio in Jack's broken heart was impressive. Boško also did it the next day. Very cool problem!

Octopussy...almost there :)

G trying Unendliche Geschichte 2
We'll be back soon...

26 April 2011

Easter in Maltatal

On Friday before the holidays confusing weather forecasts finally brought us to the decision to spend Easter in Maltatal. First time this year back to my project Petting with an alligator. I was pretty nerveus to try it again. But it went suprisingly well and now it's time to stop just trying and send it! I hope the conditions will stay good enough, because I don't know if I could wait 'till fall.

I usually go to Maltatal just for a day to try my project. But this time we climbed everything. Easy stuff for everybody, new problems, old ones we've tried before...everything!

Here are some pictures...

Outside 7C (photo: Marko Bratina)

G and some slopers (photo: Marko Bratina)

Workin on my project (photo: Marko Bratina)

Petting with an alligator (photo: Marko Bratina)
...and a video from Ouside. Like all the photos, from Marko Bratina (Pussyfinger productions):

20 April 2011

Hubelj

On Sunday I went to Hubelj for the first time this year and it's really different like G told me before. The river changed it's channel and new problems were found and some old ones are gone. I'm glad that Srce teme 7B stayed like it was because it's such a good line and I couldn't do it last summer. So I did this one and two new problems: Long Jackson 7B and Vajkl Jackson 7A.
It was a really cool day because I also did my first FA: Black Swan 6C. G found it but then I climbed it first. Here is the video of Srce teme and Black Swan:

11 April 2011

Robanov kot & Dovžanova soteska

Training hard on plastic lately made last two days in rock really special. Last Thursday I joined Slovenia climbing team in Robanov kot. Small spot with some good lines in eastern part of our little country where I don't go very often. But this time we all came and Kruder who is a local there showed us around.

Slovenia climbing team (photo: Roman Krajnik)


Samurai Jack 7B+, Robanov kot (photo: Roman Krajnik)

Yesterday I went to Dovžanova soteska with G, where David Stepanjan found new blocs in the river channel. Very cool and unique slopy problems. Here are some pictures:

G in Black Ball 7B+, Dovžanova soteska (hard one!!!)

Unikat 6A, Dovžanova soteska (photo: Gašper Bratina)