29 November 2011
28 November 2011
INTENSIVE
Yesterday I made a second ascent of Intensive 8A in Črnotiče, (FA Boštjan Weingerl). I didn't really expect it to happen. It all started in Maltatal the day before. I did really good in my project which gave me a confidence that I can really do it now. The next day we went to Črnotiče cave to get some sun after the cold day in Maltatal. I wanted to climb the stand start of Intensive: Less Intensive 7C and I did it in first try that day. I knew the moves of the sit start so I started trying it from the bottom. It's a 12 move problem with constant hard moves. After climbing slow and all tensed you need to explode and do a big dynamic move to stick the last slopy jug. This move can really make you crazy. Before, I was trying a lot the stand start and kept falling on the last move. I even managed to fall once I already had it. But that really helped me yesterday. I knew those moves really well and when I did the start I was able to fight all the way. And the last hold didn't seem so far yesterday. It was one of those days when everything goes just as it should. I felt strong, the conditions were good and in my head I was ready to send. I really missed that in my climbing lately but now it's all changed and I'm psyched about everything that's about to come...
Unfortunately we don't have a video of the climb. We only filmed the 7C and then SD card was full and it all happened to fast.
Unfortunately we don't have a video of the climb. We only filmed the 7C and then SD card was full and it all happened to fast.
25 November 2011
7 November 2011
Tomorrow I will be gone
Nice video from Rocklands. Makes me wonna go there...
Tomorrow I Will Be Gone from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.
Tomorrow I Will Be Gone from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.
26 October 2011
25 October 2011
FONTAINEBLEAU
A few photos from our last trip to Font. The whole report and the video, coming soon!
All the photos were taken by me or G!
| Trying to stand on the smallest footholds in Duel 8A |
| Lady Big Claques 7A+, Buthiers BEAUTIFUL!!! |
| Noir Desir 7C, Couvier Rempart, still a project. |
| G in l'appartenance, Buthiers, next time!? |
| G in Deux Faux Plis en Plats Reels 7C, Hautes Plaines, HARD! |
| Nexus in The Bloc, St. Germaine, so close!!! |
All the photos were taken by me or G!
4 October 2011
Črnotiče sessions
Lately, we ended up going to Črnotiče quite a few times. The cave became some kind of a training gym for us. Everybody has some projects and there are endless possibilities for linking the problems together.
I did Leo Martin 7C, a little roof in the middle of the cave. Here below is a video from Šeli's FA. When I did it the battery just died and didn't film the end. Bummer!
Črnotiče sessions from 8house production on Vimeo.
I also did some FA links for training:
-Route 66, 7A+ (starting on the jug from Gnojna bula and going all the way to the left finishing in Časovni stroj)
-Bloody cheater 7B (like Bloody flapper but going to the left and also finishing in Časovni stroj) This one was originally G's idea and he also found a new knee bar beta for the start. Very cool moves and pumpy at the end.
Other vise, I spent most of the time climbing stand start from Intensive (Boško's problem, also in the video) and I always fell on the last move. I even got to hold the last jug once but didn't manage to finish with the other hand. Now it all got pretty mental. I don't wanna keep on falling there, it makes me crazy!
Now we're going to Font in a few days!!! Can't wait!!! Two weeks of worlds best bouldering. When I come back Intensive should be easy :) Here are some pictures (not very good ones) from the night session a week or two ago. Try to guess who's the climber on the photo?
I did Leo Martin 7C, a little roof in the middle of the cave. Here below is a video from Šeli's FA. When I did it the battery just died and didn't film the end. Bummer!
Črnotiče sessions from 8house production on Vimeo.
I also did some FA links for training:
-Route 66, 7A+ (starting on the jug from Gnojna bula and going all the way to the left finishing in Časovni stroj)
-Bloody cheater 7B (like Bloody flapper but going to the left and also finishing in Časovni stroj) This one was originally G's idea and he also found a new knee bar beta for the start. Very cool moves and pumpy at the end.
Other vise, I spent most of the time climbing stand start from Intensive (Boško's problem, also in the video) and I always fell on the last move. I even got to hold the last jug once but didn't manage to finish with the other hand. Now it all got pretty mental. I don't wanna keep on falling there, it makes me crazy!
Now we're going to Font in a few days!!! Can't wait!!! Two weeks of worlds best bouldering. When I come back Intensive should be easy :) Here are some pictures (not very good ones) from the night session a week or two ago. Try to guess who's the climber on the photo?
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