25 October 2011

FONTAINEBLEAU

A few photos from our last trip to Font. The whole report and the video, coming soon!

Trying to stand on the smallest footholds in Duel 8A


Lady Big Claques 7A+, Buthiers BEAUTIFUL!!!

Noir Desir 7C, Couvier Rempart, still a project.
G in l'appartenance, Buthiers, next time!?
G in Deux Faux Plis en Plats Reels 7C, Hautes Plaines, HARD!
Nexus in The Bloc, St. Germaine, so close!!!


 All the photos were taken by me or G!

4 October 2011

Črnotiče sessions

Lately, we ended up going to Črnotiče quite a few times. The cave became some kind of a training gym for us. Everybody has some projects and there are endless possibilities for linking the problems together.

I did Leo Martin 7C, a little roof in the middle of the cave. Here below is a video from Šeli's FA. When I did it the battery just died and didn't film the end. Bummer!


Črnotiče sessions from 8house production on Vimeo.

I also did some FA links for training:
-Route 66, 7A+ (starting on the jug from Gnojna bula and going all the way to the left finishing in Časovni stroj)
-Bloody cheater 7B (like Bloody flapper but going to the left and also finishing in Časovni stroj) This one was originally G's idea and he also found a new knee bar beta for the start. Very cool moves and pumpy at the end.

Other vise, I spent most of the time climbing stand start from Intensive (Boško's problem, also in the video) and I always fell on the last move. I even got to hold the last jug once but didn't manage to finish with the other hand. Now it all got pretty mental. I don't wanna keep on falling there, it makes me crazy!

Now we're going to Font in a few days!!! Can't wait!!! Two weeks of worlds best bouldering. When I come back Intensive should be easy :) Here are some pictures (not very good ones) from the night session a week or two ago. Try to guess who's the climber on the photo?




4 September 2011

THE BEACH

The Beach 7B+, Trnovo ob Soči (photo: Gašper Bratina)





8 August 2011

TRAINING

At the moment I'm not doing anything serious but climbing. Life is good this way. Wake up in the morning, take it easy and then go climbing. We also started with some yoga exercise and it's really good. After only three sessions the difference is amazing. I don't remember the last time I was this flexible. Sometimes the positions in yoga are strange and hard like in bouldering. And with training it gets less uncomfortable and everything looks effortless and smooth. And that's how I want my climbing to feel like.

Anyway, in the afternoon it's time to go climbing. Usually, we go bouldering to one of the small local spots around here. Right now I'm not focusing on any projects I just want to climb as many different things as possible. New boulders, boulders that I already did, hard ones, easy ones, everything, even routes. Sometimes easy boulders seem pretty hard in this tropic weather (+30° and 85% humidity). But this is all training and preparing for the fall, when conditions will be good and we'll go crush some hard stuff. Here are some photos from climbing around our beautiful valley:

Beautiful 6C on Kovk


New line in Črnotiče: Leo Martin 7C+ (G working the moves, Šeli made the FA later)

Roxy climbing with us on Col

Trnovo: Šeli & Vrabec  
Grilc & the legendary sloper on Vitovlje

27 July 2011

8HOUSE

It's been almost two weeks since I moved from my sister's apartment in Škofja Loka to our new house in Vrhpolje with my new roommates and 8HOUSE members: G and Šeli. And even though the famous gym Poden is pretty far now, I think I'll be fine here :)

It's a perfect place to live if you're a climber in Slovenia. Vipavska Bela is just up the hill offering some nice sport climbing. I guess I'll use my harness more often now. All the local bouldering places are a few minutes drive away and when it's raining we have a new gym in Šempeter. Even Swiss boulders are an hour closer than they were before!

I had a summer break from climbing for a few weeks. It was really hot and I didn't rest for a year so I thought it was a smart thing to do. And now I feel fresh and psyched for climbng again! Here are some recent random pictures. More to come....from 8HOUSE!

Reachy move on Orlovca (photo: Gašper Bratina)

Krk in the morning sun (photo: Gašper Bratina)

Not my catch. Miha did all the hard work, I'm just posing (photo: Gašper Bratina)

Climbing in Zminec (photo: Katja)

Awesome problem in Dovžanova soteska, Mininova 6C (photo: Gašper Bratina)

Roxy and her big eyes (photo: Katja)

13 July 2011

Climbing Camp - ARCO

Crazy week in Arco with 22 kids from our local club and 3 coaches (me, Andrej and Grega) trying to handle everything. We had a great time climbing in some of the best crags around Arco: Massone, Nago, La Gola and San Siro. It was all about having lots and lots of fun. Unforgettable!!!

Everybody here?
Taking a walk.
Blaž in Massone
Underground 
Rest day: Lago di Garda
Robi playing ''drums''.
Nataša in Massone 
A lizard with no tail was our pet for a day in La Gola.
Luka climbing in Nago
What's for dinner? Mmmmm :)